Roman Ruins and Scams!

We woke up on time yesterday, but found that our intended bus to Chefchaouen was already full. So we headed to Meknes instead, a short 45 minute train ride from Fez. Meknes is one of the four imperial cities of Morocco and is quite a bit smaller and prettier than Fez or Casa. We found a hostel (with orange trees filling the center courtyard!) and set out for a quick lunch. The big draw is not so much the city itself, however, as the surrounding area. Meknes is an agricultural center that produces an ungodly amount of olives in addition to grains and fruit. About 40 minutes away from Meknes is the small town of Moulay Idriss (one of the first Arabic settlements in Morocco, dating from around the 8th century) and the spectacular Roman ruins of Volubilis. We caught a grand taxi (a shared taxi where they cram 5 or 6 people into an old Mercedes and split the fare) to Moulay Idriss and then walked the 4 kilometers or so to Volubilis.

Moulay Idriss is gorgeous, spilling down the sides of two adjacent hills and ringed with mountains and olive groves. The walk to Volubilis was hot but totally worth it. Perhaps because I've never been to Rome and seen some of the more renowned sites, I was completely enthralled by Volubilis. Many travellers we've met have commented on how the area is nice but the site is poorly excavated; I did not find this to be the case. Judge for yourself from the photos. There were massive columns, semi-restored tile mosaics, old bathhouses, residential quarters, ruins of a basilica and capitol, an ancient brothel, etc. The site is roughly 42 hectares and set atop another hill, which makes it's scale all the more impressive, both from a distance and up close. I'm glad I'm not jaded enough yet to feel that these Roman ruins are somehow less than captivating. I was pretty stoked.

Here is a trick that Moroccans love to play: come up to you and offer assistance that you haven't asked for (typically guide services) and then demand money after following you around for fifteen minutes. I'm swiftly learning that, while it may seem impolite, it is best to refuse all help from Moroccans with a firm "No", whether the help seems genuine or not. Anyone that has offered to help you without you specifically soliciting their help definitely has an angle. We have been naive enough to fall for this trick a couple of times now, but hopefully our lesson is learned. This observation stands in stark contrast to the helpfulness of strangers when you actually solicit their help. Without the good-humored assistance of a few dozen especially kind and patient Moroccan strangers, our trip would not have been nearly as pleasant (or possible!).

Sidenote: I love olives. A small bowl of olives precedes virtually every meal here and I could not be more excited. Sometimes it is the best part of the meal. I did not feel this way a week ago, but Moroccan olives are quickly winning me over. Also, the dates are incredible here.

We left Meknes after only a day (a very busy day) and finally caught a 4:30am bus up north to Chefchaouen, where we are currently stationed. Chaouen is by far the loveliest town we've yet visited in Morocco, set in the Rif mountains, with most of the buildings in the old medina washed in white and lilac-blue. Very Mediterranean and way more laid back so far. Pictures coming soon! We'll probably be here for 4-5 days, then we head back south. Especially exciting: Spanish is far more common this far north in Morocco. I can communicate again! And my cold has been defeated! Of course, Raxx has it now....

Holler (le matador)